Drawer organisers, desk caddies, screw bins, jewellery boxes — dial in the exact size and divider layout you need, watch it build in 3D, then download a watertight STL. Everything runs on your own device.
Not intended for food or fridge storage: the layer lines on any FDM print trap bacteria and can't be properly cleaned, whichever filament you pick. Ideal for hardware, stationery, craft supplies, tools and jewellery.
Every box is generated from scratch to the millimetre you ask for, so the useful starting points below are just that — open one and change anything you like.
150 × 100 × 45 mm, six compartments. The default for cutlery drawers, desk drawers and bathroom drawers.
Four narrow bays, thin walls, shallow. For screws, resistors, beads, SD cards and other small loose things.
A 100 mm cube split four ways, thick walls. Pens one side, scissors and rulers the other.
Softly rounded corners and a slip-on lid that prints alongside it on the same plate.
A tall cylinder with a thick floor so it doesn't tip. Pens, brushes, utensils, cables.
Hexagons tessellate, so a set of these tiles a shelf or drawer with no wasted space between them.
On the 42 mm Gridfinity standard, with the proper base profile and one foot per grid cell so it seats in a baseplate.
Measure the space, not the box. Take the inside measurement of the drawer or shelf and subtract 1–2 mm from each side. Printed parts come out a hair oversized, and a box you have to force in is a box you'll never take out again.
Set the outer size. Length, width and height are the outside of the finished box. Height is measured from the print bed, so remember anything that has to clear the top of the drawer.
Choose the compartments. Pick the number of columns and rows, up to 4 of each. The tool tells you what each compartment works out to in millimetres, so you can check the thing you're storing will actually drop in.
Only open Advanced if you need it. That's where the hexagon, octagon and round outlines live, along with Gridfinity mode and the wall, floor, divider and lid-clearance settings. The 2 mm defaults are right for almost every box.
Download it or send it to the shop. The STL is free and yours to keep. If you opened this tool from a print shop's website, Send to the shop puts the design into their quote form instead, priced at their own rates.
Gridfinity is an open modular storage standard built on a 42 mm grid: you print a baseplate once, then print bins that drop into it in any combination. Switch on Gridfinity mode in the Advanced panel and the size sliders step aside — the unit counts take over and every dimension follows the standard.
The generator uses the published figures: a 41.5 mm footprint per unit (42 mm pitch less 0.5 mm clearance), a 3.75 mm corner radius, 7 mm height units, and the 4.75 mm base profile made of a 0.8 mm chamfer, 1.8 mm straight section and 2.15 mm chamfer — which works out to the standard 35.6 mm bottom face. Multi-unit bins get one foot per grid cell rather than a single skirt, because a single skirt won't seat in a baseplate.
You can still divide a Gridfinity bin into compartments. The one thing it doesn't do yet is a stacking lip, so bins sit in a baseplate rather than stacking directly on each other.
Wall thickness — 2 mm. At a 0.4 mm nozzle a 2 mm wall prints completely solid, so it's strong enough for tools and hardware without doubling the print time. 3 mm only if it'll take real weight; below 1.6 mm the walls flex and the box loses its shape.
Floor thickness. Separate from the walls, because a parts bin that carries weight wants a thicker floor than it wants thick sides. 2 mm is fine for most things, 3–4 mm for anything heavy or top-heavy like a tall pot.
Divider thickness. Also separate. Thin dividers buy back usable space inside the box — they only have to separate things, not hold them up.
Lid fit — Snug, Normal or Loose. This one is about your printer, not the design: snug grips and stays on when you tip the box, loose slides off freely and forgives a squashed first layer. The lid slips over the outside of the box, so it seats no matter how the compartments are arranged — and because it's a separate part, a fit you don't like costs one reprint of the lid, not the whole thing.
Infill and supports. 15% infill is plenty and nothing needs supports — the box has a flat base and vertical walls, so there's nothing to overhang. That holds for any filament. Which one to actually use depends on where the box will live and what it has to carry — heat resistance, stiffness and impact strength all vary by filament.
Yes — free to use, no account, no sign-up, and the STL download is unwatermarked. What you design is yours, commercial use included. It all runs in your browser, so nothing you design is uploaded anywhere.
Measure the inside of the drawer and take 1–2 mm off each side. For several boxes in one drawer, divide the space up and leave about 1 mm between them so they lift out independently.
No — and that's true of any FDM print whatever the filament. Layer lines trap bacteria and can't be properly sanitised, brass nozzles can contain lead, and filament colourants aren't food grade. Use these for hardware, stationery, craft supplies, tools and jewellery.
No. Flat base, vertical walls, nothing overhangs. 15% infill is plenty since the walls print solid at 2 mm.
Up to 300 mm a side here, but most printers have a bed around 220–256 mm. Past roughly 180 mm fewer printers can take the job and past 250 mm very few can — the tool warns you at each threshold.
If you opened this tool from a print shop's website, press Send to the shop and the design goes into their quote form, priced at their own rates. Otherwise download the STL — free and unwatermarked — and print it yourself or take it to any print shop. 3Dash makes the quoting software; we don't print anything.
Press Copy link and the whole design is encoded into the URL. Anyone who opens it sees the exact box you made and can tweak or download it themselves.