PLA, PETG, ABS, Nylon, TPU, resin — they look similar on screen but behave very differently in your hand. This guide breaks down what each one is good (and bad) at, so you can pick the right material before you order. Not sure? Ask us — it's free.
Just needs to look good or it's a prototype
→ PLA
Needs to be tough & functional, but easy
→ PETG
Faces heat or sun (car, outdoors)
→ ABS
Gears, hinges, high-wear engineering parts
→ Nylon
Needs to bend or flex (cases, grips)
→ TPU
Needs fine detail (miniatures, jewelry)
→ Resin
The default for a reason: easy to print accurately, sharp detail, the lowest cost, and a wide colour range. The catch is heat — PLA starts to soften around 60°C, so it's not for anything left in a hot car or in direct sun, and it's stiff rather than tough (it can crack under a sharp impact).
Best for: display models, prototypes, figurines, props, cosplay, indoor decor.
Avoid for: hot environments, load-bearing or high-impact parts.
The best "first functional" material. Tougher and slightly flexible compared to PLA, with good water and chemical resistance and better heat tolerance (softens around 75–85°C). It's the sweet spot when a part has to actually do a job but you don't want the hassle of ABS.
Best for: brackets, enclosures, mechanical parts, bottles/containers, parts that see some moisture.
Trade-off: slightly less crisp detail than PLA; can string a little.
Strong, impact resistant and heat tolerant (good to roughly 100°C), and it can be vapour-smoothed to a glossy finish. The price is printability: ABS warps and needs care, so it shines specifically where heat resistance matters.
Best for: automotive parts, enclosures near heat, outdoor fittings, durable functional parts.
Trade-off: prone to warping; not ideal for very large flat parts or ultra-fine detail.
The engineering workhorse: the toughest and most fatigue-resistant of the common filaments, with low friction and a bit of natural flex. It's the go-to when a part will be used hard and repeatedly. It does absorb moisture and is more demanding to print, so it's best reserved for parts that truly need its strength.
Best for: gears, living hinges, clips, bushings, high-wear and load-bearing mechanical parts.
Trade-off: pricier and harder to print; detail is good but not resin-sharp.
Rubber-like and bendy, with great impact and abrasion resistance. Choose TPU when the part needs to squish, stretch or grip. It prints slowly and isn't for rigid structures, but nothing else gives you that flexible, shock-absorbing feel.
Best for: phone cases, gaskets & seals, grips, straps, wheels, vibration dampers.
Avoid for: anything that must stay rigid or hold a precise shape under load.
In a different league for detail and surface finish — crisp edges and smooth surfaces straight off the printer. Perfect for small, intricate pieces. Standard resin is rigid but more brittle than filament, so it's less suited to large or load-bearing parts (tougher engineering resins exist for specific needs).
Best for: miniatures, tabletop models, jewelry masters, dental/medical models, detailed art.
Trade-off: more brittle; best for smaller parts where detail beats durability.
| Material | Strength | Heat resistance | Detail | Flexibility | Relative cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | Low–Medium | Low (~60°C) | High | Rigid | $ |
| PETG | Medium–High | Medium (~80°C) | Medium | Slight flex | $$ |
| ABS | High | High (~100°C) | Medium | Rigid | $$ |
| Nylon | Very high | High | Medium | Semi-flexible | $$$ |
| TPU | Medium (tough) | Medium | Medium | Very flexible | $$$ |
| Resin | Medium (brittle) | Low–Medium | Very high | Rigid | $$$ |
Heat figures are approximate softening points and vary by brand and print settings. Use them to compare materials, not as exact specs.
Tell us how the part will be used and we'll recommend the right material and finish — free, no obligation. For large, bulk or custom orders, get a quick review before you pay so it comes out right the first time.